The Ibar River catchment in Kosovo

 

Fish sampling in the Ibar River in Kosovo

Late August 2023

The Ibar, also known as the Ibër and Ibri (in Albanian), is a large upland river that flows through eastern Montenegro, northern Kosovo and central Serbia, with a total length of 272 km . The river begins Montenegro and enters northern Kosovo, where it leads back into southern Serbia to flow into the West Morava river (part of the Great Morava), a major tributary of the Danube. The Ibar's drainage area is 7,925 square km. We studied it this summer in Kosovo.  

In late August 2023 we were invited to participate in a project to research the ecological quality of the Ibar and we concentrated on its fishes. Of course conditions in the river and its tributaries were extremely degraded, incredible and severe pollution problems were documented and they obviously affect the fish! Urban, industrial, farming and other forms of  pollution and the destruction of habitats, the many barriers to fish movement and lack of any real love for the river is very sad.  Some speceis we thought we'ed encounter were missing, although we did record at least 23 taxa. And, I hope one day we can see a cleaner Ibar, more fish and a people in peace. 

These are some snapshots from our mission - incomplete since they are only from my camera. More photos may soon be added. We thank our friends from the University of Pristina for a wonderful collaboration.

THE FISHES

Squalius cephalus

Squalius cephalus

Squalius cephalus

Lepomis gibbosus

Salmo trutta (below Ujmani/Gazivoda Dam)

Salmo trutta (main stem tributary of the Ibar, several kms north of Mitrovica).

Phoxinus sp. An adult from cold waters. Minnows in this area could be the native species, perhaps Phoxinus csikii.

Phoxinus sp. We are careful about putting names to fishes without molecular confirmation.

Phoxinus sp.

Barbus balcanicus, a big one in the main stem of the mid Ibar.

Gobio obtusirostris

Romanogobio uranoscopus, we caught only two specimens in the mid section near the border. 

Cobitis elongatoides

Cobitis sp. Another problematic group to identify, especially if there is a chance of translocated species from nearby ecoregions. 

Sabanejewia balcanica

Barbus balcanicus

Perhaps Vimba vimba. This is the only specimen we managed to collect!  We expected more of this species in the mid section, this one is from near the border.

A definate Chondrostoma nasus

Rutilus rutilus

Rutilus rutilus

Rhodeus amarus

 The very common and widespread Barbatula barbatula.

Crayfish species

THE PLACES 

Mitrovica and the Ibar

Ibar in Mitrovica, downstream of the city, very polluted! 

Sitnica in Mitrovica, immediately before the city, severe pollution! No fish.

Trying to find the river....a Mad Max landscape, Mitrovica.

City trash tipped into the river in Mitrovica.

Ibar dowstream of the confluence with the Sitnica in Mitrovica

Ibar near Mitrovica, extreme pollution and an over-growth of alge on the rocky substrate.

Ibar in Mitrovica immediately below Mitrovica Artificial Lake. Now there is no fish pass here. We collected 11 speceis of fish, non can pass upstream.

Mitrovica Artificial Lake is created by two barages on the Ibar. This water body is an attractive addition to the city and is really beautiful but there was no provision made for fish passes, so we have a serious barrier stopping the entire mid Ibar populations of fishes to enter the upstream area of the Ibar. 

Ibar in Mitrovica (dowstream of the weir forming the Artificial Lake).

Ibar in Mitrovica, the downstream weir. This is the BIGGEST problem for migratory fish in the mid Ibar.

Llapi tributary in Central Kosovo, near Balshaj - also very polluted. Trout farm upstream, dead rainbows floating down river. The two fishermen in the picture are HEROES!!! 

Mountain tributary near Ujmani/Gazivoda Dam. The barriers here are a significant problem; this stream had no fishes. 

The field team included Dimitris Zogaris (Univ. Thessaly) and our good friends Linda Grapci-Kotori and Donard Geci from University of Pristina.

Main stem of the Ibar upstream of Mitrovica (river-side restaurants near Koshtovë ) . This is a fantastic area with rapids and quite clean waters. Unfortunately many fish species we expected area missing here. 

Main stem of the Ibar, many kilometers north of Mitrovica (near Ibarska Slatina). Still polluted and an over-growth of algae on rocky bottom.

Main stem of the Iber in the north of Kosovo, near Rëvatskë, the northernmost surveyed site (near the border). This area still shows moderate pollution from upstream but the fish fauna is quite rich.  

Small tributary in the north of Kosovo.

Landscape in the south of Kosove, near one of the Sitnitsa tributaries, the upland part of the Drenice river.

Albania in late Autumn

Late November - Early December 2023

We spent a week carrying out river surveys between Berat and Korçë — the third and final expedition of this particular HCMR project in Albania. As always, we were in good hands. Met with generous hospitality, nice people, and interesting landscapes.

Although most of my time was spent coordinating and overseeing fish surveys along the rivers, I still managed to submit 11 checklists and record 36 species on eBird. This time, others handled most of the wet work.

I also enjoyed two memorable walks around Berat Castle and discovered a hidden trail descending below the flagstaff. The path zigzags across the cliffside, revealing interesting microhabitats, crumbling rocky cliffs and phrygana. The rocks had a family of Rock Nuthatch, Ravens sat nearby for a sec. Experiencing all this just before sunset time, under gloomy and humid skies, made it quite atmospheric — and absolutely worth it.

Chaffinch on Black Poplar by the Shkumbini River.

Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, by the Shkumbini River.

Osumi River, downstream of Berat.

Goritsa neighbourhood, Berat.

Eurasian Collared-Dove, Berat.

Black Redstart, Berat.

In Berat.

Parsimons! (or Kakis), juicy winter treat in Albania; Berat Castle.

Black Redstart, Berat Castle.

European Blackcap, Berat Castle.

Raven, Berat Castle.

These are some of the most interesting birds for me.

 

Despite working and overlooking fish surveys, I did manage to submit 11 checklists and log 36 species on eBird. Warmest thanks to eBird for providing this service (https://ebird.org/tripreport/176295)

Eco-Lodges of the World

What is an Ecolodge? What is 'close-to-nature' accommodation? 

Ecolodges usually strive to have rather strict requirments. Although not always met to the letter they should try to care for nature. All the requirements for lodgings to qualify as ecolodges are listed in the International Eco-Lodge Guidelines. According these Guidelines (1999), the lodging must have the following features:

• Situated close to a natural area and in a rural or natural area that is not significantly impacted by pollution, traffic, noise, or urban development
• Employ systems that safeguard the environment against pollution and degradation
• Frequently employ energy-saving systems and, in some cases, renewable energy technologies
• Employ or have access to nature interpretation guides who have received biological training or who have extensive local knowledge of the natural habitats
• Inform guests and visitors about the local biology, offer books, posters, maps, photographs, orientation presentations, and other informational materials
• Assist in educating guests, staff, and visitors about the importance and value of a healthy ecosystem, as well as describing how to enjoy the area without negatively impacting it
• Benefit the local economy and demonstrate that ecotourism is a more sustainable way to earn money in the long run than destroying or modifying habitats for short-term gain.

Sometimes it is hard to define ecolodge, the "eco" aspect requires great care for the environment and the local community (i.e. can it be environmentally friendly to the core?). And yes, perhaps most ecolodges are rather exclusive and elitist projects. So, I will use a broader term here, that may not satisfy all above criteria; I present the idea of "Close-to-nature Accommodation" or CNA. 

CNA may differ from the Ecolodge because it may not be in a position to provide a more "eco" sustainability, thus it may not fulfill some of the criteria above. But it usually shares all the criteria, a good CNA nature lodge is an Ecolodge. A CNA (like an Ecolodge) is almost always located in a remote area or in an near a natural area, usually near or within an areas that has remarkalbe biodiversity attractions (nature). A key point is access to nature and wildlife watching of all forms; this is what ultimately defines a true CNA/nature lodge. The situation and circumstances are such to allow visitors to truly connect with the surrounding nature or to other biodiversity attractions; attraction of outstanding interest (near natural ecosystems, parks, trails) and often providing wildlife viewing opportunities. It may not provide facilities (nature trails, feeders etc) that most famous ecolodges have, but often it does. It may or may not be labled as eco-friendly or nature-oriented but often it is. Sometimes its just a good place to stay near exceptional wildllife and biodiversity attractions. It is not always upscale; sometimes its proprietors may not even be aware that the CNA is located near or within such an important biodiversity (or wildlife watching) attraction. So the CNA idea, is more fluid, it is similar but not identical to the Ecolodge concept. 

The CNA concept is broader than the Ecolodge concept. It may usually not be an upscale market establishement or specialized in any way. Emphasis on closeness and degree of quality of biodiversity attractions is paramount. We sincerely hope all CNAs can graduate to Ecolodge status. But first we would like to simply locate and evaluate some CNAs or Great Nature Lodges of the World. I will present some in upcomming posts. 

Central Albania in Early Summer 2023

Central Albania 

Early June, 2023

In the last few years I have been fortunate enought to have had several trips to Albania. I just came back from a resarch trip on the Osum and Devoll River σ(Seman Basin) - between Korce, Berat and Fieri during early June 2023. 

Some quick thoughts after hundreds of hours outdoors, assessing river and riparian zones and birding. 

The landscape vegetation is bouncing back after much abandonment during the last 25+ years. Grazing though seems to be totally abandoned in some places, not good...

Small traditional living villages do survive but they are small. 

Big mammals are comming back slowly. 

Raptors are scarce, perhaps poisons are being used. 

River riparian zone alteration and water pollution problems are severe in many places. Some vegetation come-back after abandonment in riparian zones is starting-up - especially during the last 20 years. 

More tourists are visiting Albania, Berat was nearly over-run by tourists during my stay in early June. I'll be back soon and will report on more. 

Photos and drone photos by me and Dimitris Zogaris.