Saturday, May 2, 2026

Muğla Turkey: Short visit

 


April 29th to May 1st

Muğla Turkey this time...the name is pronounced Moola; but Μούγλα in Greek since Byzantine times. I came here for a scientific workshop but also for enjoying the nature, culture and language of Turkey. I walked a couple of times just out of town to the ancient Acropolis on Masa Dağı (Table Mountain) and the lower part of the Değirmendere Canyon (immediately near the city, a peri-urban area really). Muğla is a relatively small city by modern turkish standards, about  61,550 (2009 estimate) and often overlooked by visitors to the nearby coastal resorts. I visited by landing at the airport in Bodrum, which is only an hour and 10 mins drive away.

Muğla's center is situated inland at an altitude of 660 m and lies at a distance of about 30 km from the nearest sea coast, the Gulf of Gökova to its south-west. We also visited Akyaka (ate at the Akyaka Orman Kampi Restorani that provides a view of the inner bay of Gökova). On Masa Dağı, to the north of the city, a few ancient remains and rock-cut tombs indicate that it was the site of an acropolis. It appears in the historical record for the first time at the beginning of the 2nd century BC under the name Mobolla (Ancient Greek: Μόβωλλα).

I have not researched the presence of the Greeks in this area, but Wikipedia says that in 1912 the Sanjak of Menteşe (Muğla) had a total population of 42,000, of which 1,500–4,000 were ethnic Greeks, according to its various sources. Most Greeks residing in the subprovince lived in the city of Muğla, totalling slightly more than 1,000 in number; but I did read somewhere (Muğla Chamber of Commerce and Industry website) that there were said to be 3000 Greeks in Muğla City. So easy to forget the history. As all know we had this terrible population exchange so they all had to leave in 1924. But I did find one house in the old part of the city with some Greek letters above the doorway.

Anyway, I really recommend staying a couple of nights in this city to soak up a truley authentic turkish experience. The people are extremely friendly and hospitable and you can definately walk into wonderful countryside in spring. There are very very few foreign tourists. On the trails I saw no tourist. I did have an encounter with a dog, but it was very shy. 

The little walking I did was wonderful and I had some good wildlife experiences, especially finding my first Caucasian Squirrels (Sciurus anomalus, used to be called Persian Squirrel) and wonderful photo-ops of Rüppell's warbler, Masked Shrike, Wheatears, Rock Nathatch, Peregrine etc. Also the flight of Gull-billed Terns at Gökova. Of course, I would return to this part of Turkey anytime! 

Some snapshots follow....

Aquilibrium Workshop with Stakeholders





City of Muğla 














View of the City from the Acropolis (Masa Dağı)




Değirmendere Canyon (Karamuğla Deresi)






Wildlife in and Near the City










Gulf of Gökova at Akyaka