Wednesday, July 31, 2024

Sri Lanka: Best wildlife-watching & cultural combo in South Asia!



July 2024
Colombo Sri Lanka!

Back in Sri Lanka during their off-season, their so-called rainy season. It was not rainy everywhere and it was well worth the three-weeks away! We did a loop around the south, mostly going to reservoirs where we applied an assessment protocol and counted birds. Zipping around and meeting people...it was work!   

Part of my stay was with a  voluteer research initiative between HCMR and the University of Ruhuna; the rest was a wonderful homestay at a resort complex in the southern provence. 

Some notes on why you should consider visiting Sri Lanka....

-The country is still absolutly authentic; nearly everything still is. Tourism is still low-key and does not destroy the vibe although this unfortunately is changing. So go now before its too late. 

-Wildlife watching is good in Sri Lanka. You really see a lot even outside protected areas. Things are very photograph-able... 

-Birding is not easy in the jungle (find a good guide if you want to see all the endemics; we missed many....), otherwise 'slow birding' on your own is fine. 

- Find the elephants! Wild ones. 

Some LIKES etc! 
  • Best Herp (i.e. herpetological) find: Salt-water crocs (salties!) in the Pulwatta river, Weligama.
  • Next-best Herp: The monitors, they are everywhere. Cuter than any puppy dog....
  • Best bird: Changeable Hawk Eagle (photo below...).
  • Second best bird: Malabar Hornbill. 
  • Stupidest bird ID error - flagged on Ebird: Sirka imm. (photo below), we thought was Basra. 
  • Nemesis Bird not found: Sri Lanka Bush Warbler (one of many excuses to go back...). 
  • Best Mammal: Asian Elephant - hand's down. Better than leopard any day. 
  • Best Elephant: A bull, a really old tusker - behind electric fence of the Udawalawe (see photo).
  • Best other animals: Fishes in streams in Kithulgala! Also in Udawalawe river!!!
  • My 'spirit animal': Asian Water Buffallo (one of SL two native species- see photos below).
  • Most wonderful landscape: Impossible to say! Sooo many scenic landscapes....
  • Best wild plant: Ceylon Rhododendron, perfect bright pink-red flowers at Horton Plains N.P.
  • Best walk (or hike): 9 km loop-walk at Horton Plains National Park.
  • Best spirtual moment: Poya (moon-day) at Buddhist shrine near Malabar Hill, Weligama.
  • Alternative reason to visit Sri Lanka: the food! 
  • Even more alternative reason to visit Sri Lanka: Talking with the locals (smiles, laughter). 
  • Most beautiful human-made element in Sri Lanka: Happy children.
  • Best shopping: An outlet with "Moose" brand clothes at Tissa; also Tropical Linen in Colombo.
  • Best shopping experience vibe: Barefoot, Colombo.
  • Best urban environment: Galle, nothing like it anywhere in the world. 
  • Erroneous shortfall: Not walking out in the jungle at night with a flashlight (night safari). 
  • Worst weather: Nuwara Eliya -cold and rain (also shockingly difficult to find birds there).
  • Biggest tourism-generated landscape degradation: Mirissa Beach (but still beautiful). 
  • Saddest realization: Large-scale urban sprawl and agricultural changes in the south coast.
  • Missed opportunity: No mask & snorkel for fishwatching in clear-water streams at Kithulgala.
  • Biggest fright: Knowing I was swimming in estuary waters (Matara) where Salties live.
  • Scariest momment: None. It's one of the safest countries in the world.
  • Thing I didn't expect: How interesting and wonderful Colombo is. Well worth some time.
  • Worst beast bite: Leaches at Kithulgala. We didn't disinfect, the wounds got infected. Careful! 
  • Weirdest habitat enhancement: Concrete ponds, Galway's Land National Park (photo below).
  • Most disappointing National Park: Galway's Land National Park (something's wrong, no birds!)
  • Favorite Protected Area: Udawalawe National Park. 
  • Worst ever tourism experience: Traffic jam in Yala National Park (and not seeing the leopard).
  • Arty-culty experience not to be missed: Walking through open-air fruit markets.
  • Favorite hotel: Kalus Hideaway, Udawalawe.
  • Favorite resort area: Malarbar Hill Sri Lanka, Weligama.
  • Favorite home-stay place: Ayubowan Homestay Katunayake (very close to the Colombo Airport)
  • Favorite car-rental agency: "rent a private driver in sri lanka".
Here I share just a very few of our photos, taken this summer during the trip. 



 

















Special thanks to our car-rental service; highly recommended! 

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And finally the round-up of birds seen. Trip count: 136 species, 44 lifers! 81 checklists added.

With my warmest thanks to eBird for all its help in promoting wildlife conservation and citizen science! 
Yellow line on eBird map superimposed to show general clock-wise loop-itinerary taken, stating and ending at the Colombo airport (top-Left).