Geomythological tour of the Peloponnese!

 

A Geomythological Peloponnese with College Year in Athens

November 12th to 15th 2024

We made a rainy-weather trip to the geomythological hotspots of the Northeastern Peloponnese. 

These are easily reachable even on a one-night trip from Athens. But we went for three nights with the following overnight locations:

- Nafplion: Cornth Canal / Mycenae - the archeological site and small museum / Lerni - home of the Lernean Hydra 

- Kalavirta: Lake Stymphalia / Lake Doxa

- Kalavrita: Cave of the Lakes / Chelonospilia and nearby springs of the Ladon / Mount Chelmos /             Vouraikos Gorge (descent with the rack-and-pinion railway train).

A wikipedia definition of Geomythology (also called “legends of the earth," or "landscape mythology"):

"the study of oral and written traditions created by pre-scientific cultures to account for, often in poetic or mythological imagery, geological events and phenomena" 

Examples include the labours of Heracles - the slaying of the Lernean Hydra which alludes to the draining of the karstic spring-fed foods and malarial marshes of the area of Lerni near Mycenae.

In exploring the ancient's views of their world we can be guided to study modern landscapes as well. 

Here I share some photos.

THE SITES

The Cornth Canal

Ancient Mycenae

Lerni Spring (home of the Lernean Hydra)

Lake Stymphalia

Lake Doxa

Cave of the Lakes and the Upper Ladon Valley

                                                                           THE BIRDING

Western Rock Nuthatch, Mycenae

Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Kalavrita

Middle-Spotted Woodpecker, Lake Stymphalia

Birding begun on the 12th, so it was only 4 days. Ok we did not bird, but I included what we observed even during this rather broad ranging road trip. 

My most fanatastic trip to Crete!

My most fanatastic trip to Crete! 
September 2024

Go to Kriti.

Of course you must read and re-read Rackham and Moody(1996), a paradigm change in non-fiction literature: 'The Making of the Cretan Landscape'. This book introduces the 'ruined landscape theory' and defends the idea of cultural landscape evolution. It also interprets Greece's landscape for the first time in a holistic and historically-relevant way. I said first time (in Greece). What were we doing before 1996? I mean landscape in Greece is so poorly studied and so poorly protected (long story). 

The book ends by saying that there is still hope in conservation education, "since only ten years have gone by since Crete could be called the most beautiful island in the world" (I paraphrase...). Ok, now a generation time (25+ years) has passed. Is Crete still authentically beautiful? Are there still wild areas? Rich cultural landscapes?  

Vist Crete, in early Autumn or Spring. Go for the nature, try to find the wilds.... Go walking on the trails and the few wilderness beaches (mostly away from the tourist areas). But see the overtroden delights too, go to Matalla! 

Our College Year in Athens - CYA trip was fantastic! 

Vassiliki Vlami and I (guiding-lecturing) led 18 American undergrads. It was there first time. 

We had help with local guides, including a wonderful archaeological tour of Phaestos and mountain guides at Lissos gorge as well. Vassilis and Antigone from CYA helped immensly, every detail, everything! And we thank our bus driver, Manousos, for the gift of a huge plastic bottle of raki. 

Some pics follow - all taken in just 4 days on Crete! 

SOUGIA BEACH AND LISSOS GORGE

Wild Rock Pigeons, Eurasian Honey Buzzard migration and other majestic raptors from the beach, a freak storm, but before that a wonderful hike to the view of the ancient nekropolis of Lissos. 

AGIA LAKE (CHANIA)

Late morning visit, sun in our eyes...A beautiful Oriental Plane grove, wetland birds including some rarities, tiny mosquito fish and turtles (native stripe-necked terrapins). 

STAVROS BEACH AND TERSANAS - MACHAIRIDI POND (CHANIA)

50 years after the film of Zorba the Greek, still a spectacular beach! 

KOURTALIOTIKO GORGE & PREVELI

Landscape study of the southern side of Crete. Took a boat ride into the Lybian Sea, Crete's second largest native palm wood, blue-rock thrushes, fantastic views of Eurasian Griffon Vultures!

ANCIENT PHAISTOS & MATALA

Landscapes of the Messara plain, a collared dove in a Ficus tree, a eagle-like Common Buzzard, Red Beach, and Matalla! 

TEXT FOR THE TRIP: THE MAKING OF THE CRETAN LANDSCAPE - OLIVER RACKHAM & JENIFER MOODY (1996)

The Making of the Creten Landscape by Rackham and Moody (1996). Our two copies of one of the most important books ever written concerning Greece and Greek nature-society. Upper volume is the original paper-back from 1996, bought by us in a small bookstore in Chania in 1999. Vassiliki and I were guiding an ecotour back then. Lower volume is the Greek translation published in 2004. The Greek translation is fine, but the original is brilliant. 

Ok I've shown only the good stuff in this post! But its no hype. The island is awe inspiring and I had good company. The map above shows the trip route and the birds seen along the way (43 speceis in four days - eBird). But this was not birding, we did no early morning strolls; all while guiding and teaching undergrad students. Two nights in Chania City, one in Irakleion City. Two nights on the ferry. One short boat trip to Preveli Beach. From a birding POV it was rather sad. Poor diversity, there are reasons for this, not just low effort. But, the vultures are enough to want to go back soon!